Photo Essay: Eisa Dancing In Buddhist Okinawa
Eisa was traditionally performed to welcome the spirits of ancestors during the three day Obon holiday. Today, it may be seen year-round at any festival, sporting event, school assembly or even at a Christmas party.
The word “Eisa” comes from a chant used by Buddhist priests during prayers for deceased. It is now shouted by the leader of an Eisa group to get the dancing started and throughout the performance. The rest of the members respond “Hai ii ya”, “Ei sa sa” or “Sui sa sa”.
Brightly colored uniforms and turbans decorate the drum-beating, high-stepping men. Young girls dressed in summer kimonos and scarves play smaller drums or dance waving their hands gracefully in the air.
In every group a few odd characters stand out from the crowd. Dressed in banana fiber cloth or something outrageously different from their peers, they wander among the other dancers at their own pace. They are called “Chondara” or “Gajan gani” and their antics could make a stone-faced Buddha smile!
At indoors Eisa events music is usually played over the building’s PA system. Outdoors, pickup trucks covered with straw roofs may contain a live, stringed band as well as an amplifier blasting folk music.
There’s one more thing the performance includes: whistling. Words can’t describe the distinct, shrill “Okinawan Whistle.” A flock of whippoorwills on steroids might come close, but can never match the sound of whistling Eisa dancers.
1.Eisa at night, on the streets during Obon.
2.A drummer chants “Hai ii ya”.
3.A young woman wears a traditional summer kimono while dancing.
4.A close-up shot of a character.
5.Here, Eisa is being performed on a school soccer field.
6.Children dance at a school event.
7.Students and teachers dance at a Golden Week ceremony.
8.High-stepping drummers dancing at a festival.
9.These drummers leap in the air as they dance.
10.Eisa being performed the night before a championship bullfight.
11.A Chondara wearing striped banana fiber clothing wanders through the scene.
12.A banner displaying the village district accompanies the Eisa group.
13.A Gajan gani, wearing a flowered robe and straw hat does his thing.
14.Words can’t describe the “Okinawan Whistle”.
Further information about Okinawa Eisa.
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Check out another festival in Baranquilla, Colombia. And don’t miss Mike’s Shinugu Matsuri: The Festival That Could Change the World.
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16 Comments... join the discussion!
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I love how everyone just looks like they’re having a great time. The photos really capture the movement of the drummers and participants. Great job!
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Ian,
Great big thanks to you. Yesterday when you emailed and said this was published, I was so happy to be in BNT, I didn’t know whether to cry or get drunk. So, I did….Cheers,
Mike↵ -
Great shots Mike! I love #5.
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Katie,
Thank you. That shot is popular, just a shame they haven’t invented a ZOOM FLASH to reach out and lighten up the shadows. The boy who looks like he winked is actually squinting from the bright noon sun.↵ -
Wonderful work AGAIN! You never cease to amaze me!
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Audrey, my friend, as always, thank you. You know you can blow me away with your camera. Matador is waiting for you !
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Nice Mike! They do bullfighting in Japan??
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Carlo,
Thank you, Carlo. Yes, they have bullfights here, only it’s bull vs bull. No dude with a cape and a knife. Seems like a relatively bloodless sport, but I’m not sure the Humane Society would approve of it. I’m deaf in one ear and can’t hear so well outa the other one, but I heard a bull pop like a blownout tire once when he got gored in the side. Haven’t been to a bullfight since!↵ -
Totally beautiful photos, Mike!
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Totally beautiful thank you, Sabina. You’re one of the folks who inspires me to keep on writing. I owe you.
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#7 gets my vote.
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Turner, another Matador Bud, who keeps me pumped up with your writing style. Shoot me an email and I’ll fire you back a full-size file of #7for your website. Thanks for your comment !
Cheers,
Mike↵ -
Thanks, Kimayou. I haven’t been able to get the straight scoop on the whistling dude’s hair style, yet. But, I will and you can even help. I’ll print a photo for them and take it to their village office. You drive and write; I translate and shoot. Could be the makings of a story for you. Sound like fun?
Cheers,
Mike↵ -
Amazing photos from you yet again, Mike. Love the energy in no 9. Also, since I have a Chinese-born daughter, I’m totally charmed by the girls – and colours – in no 11.
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Anne-Sophie,
Thank you ! I’m kinda fond of #11, too. Some of those Gals are my sweethearts. They have alot more energy then the dancers in #9 ’cause somebody always feeds them ice cream for breakfast !↵
