Chuck Thompson Takes Us to Hell and Back

01/6/10  Print This Post Print This Post    5 Comments      Written by Christine Garvin
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Thompson’s latest book includes traveling to some of the last remaining “hellholes” on Earth – the Congo, India, Mexico City, and Disney World.

Chuck Thompson is without a doubt, a funny guy. I recall sitting in the Northstar Resort at Lake Tahoe, reading his first book, Smile When You’re Lying, because one, I don’t ski, and two, I had horrible, horrible cramps.

His anecdotes about the insane world of “it better be positive!” travel writing made me laugh out loud in the middle of feeling as if I were birthing a child and about 50 kids running around screaming as if they were being abducted (it was lunch time). Impressive, indeed.

I was therefore naturally excited to get a copy of his latest, To Hellholes and Back: Bribes, Lies, and the Art of Extreme Tourism. On the whole, I wasn’t disappointed.

Thompson’s certainly got a knack for intertwining details of his adventures with his thoughts on the situation he finds himself in – or one that somehow at least in part relates to it – in a way that keeps his writing snappy. Complete flow, no; mind continually perked up, yes.

This time around, he decides to tackle places in the world best known for their atrocities, pushy salesman, and mangled killings. And I’m not just talking about Disney World, the last and most feared destination on his expedition. The Congo, India, and Mexico City also made the list, a tour de force à la Eat, Pray, Love, only with snarky commentary and well, not a hint of spirituality.

Thompson raises a glass to Mexico City for being the exception-to-his-rule that “there’s no such thing as a good drinking town.”

In Hellholes, Thompson derides India for kicking a person into “‘get the fuck away from me’ survival-mode tourist asshole you’ve always promised yourself you’d never become,” and raises a glass to Mexico City for being the exception-to-his-rule that “there’s no such thing as a good drinking town.” You get the drift.

I’ve been to Zambia (which somehow gets an even worse momentary spotlight than the Congo) and therefore engaged with some of the corruption Thompson painfully recounts during his month in the DRC (thank God my experience wasn’t that bad). This sums up my only real concern with the book – I wish to warn those who are particularly sensitive to certain views of the world (i.e. developing world good, developed world BAD) to stay away from his work.

As Pam Mandel noted in her review of Smile, he treats realities such as sex tourism, and in Hellholes, perceived notions such as earth-connected Africans – in the “protected” Luki Biosphere Reserve of the DRC, Thompson and his haphazard group of guides, haltingly dubbed Team Congo, “hear the rhythmic sounds of chopping wood and encounter dozens of locals walking in the opposite direction with bundles of wood on their backs” – with great irony and no holds barred.

By the way, if you really think villages are so great, spend a year in an African one and see how you like starving, washing in a river the guys upstream dump their shit in, and having your neighbors up your ass seven days a week.

You are bound to get pissed off at some of the things he says. I’m pretty sure he wouldn’t have it any other way.

Living to the Extreme

But if you want a dose of reality about both culture and place to go with your travel glossies (of course, the market has changed dramatically since Lying; there is now much more “real” travel writing available on the web and in certain travel magazines, from Matador to Wend), Thompson is here to break it down for you.

This concept of “extreme tourism,” where we put ourselves in danger for the adventure, the rush, or simply to get to brag that we survived, is an interesting one. Thompson understands this well – he gets that these particular “hellholes” are defined that way by the media mostly because they are so different from what we know, from our Western ways. He writes:

…Anything that gets the traveler out of his or her comfort zone, or forces them to challenge their belief system, fits a fluid creation.

Or, as is the case with Mexico City, the hype is based on fiction or the past, with rumors that citizens will react alarmingly upon being approached on the street because they are afraid you will kidnap/murder them being scoffed at by locals when such a predicament is put forward. Our media certainly likes its black-and-white, we-decided-this-is-drug-induced-hell-years-ago-and-we’re-sticking-to-it tactics.

It’s a Small World After All

So what exactly is the point of this book? Well, of course it is to show these places aren’t as bad as they are made out to be – it would have come as a shock if Thompson said, “Yep, they are actually shittier than I thought they would be. I can’t believe I made it out alive.” But beyond blasting the fallacy of “extreme tourism,” the theme of a connected human nature shines a dim yet constant light.

Only problem is these are parts of human nature that Westerners aren’t always comfortable looking at within ourselves. Here’s my favorite summary from the book, a quote from a Peace Corps volunteer Thompson interviewed:

Africa is a human nature stripped to the raw bones; life at its most basic. You find a lot of human traits out in the open there that we prefer to hide – sex, violence, love, hate, sickness, strength, greed, compassion, sadness, humor. It’s all right there, and this is what makes it both attractive and repellant to Westerners.

The same can be said for the pushy salesman of India, the kill-or-be-killed soccer fanatics of Mexico City, or the escapist mentality of Disney World. These are all examples of human nature at its most raw. Best be ready for them if you plan on stepping out of our moderately repressed Western world, but no need to think you are going to be gunned down (or Micky Moused) in the process.

Oh, and Thompson’s tangental as hell. But so am I, so I kind of dig it.

What do you think about the idea of “extreme tourism”? Share your thoughts below.

Feature photo: antwerpenR


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About the Author

Christine Garvin

Christine Garvin is a certified Nutrition Educator and holds a MA in Holistic Health Education. She is co-editor of Brave New Traveler and founder/editor of Living Holistically...with a sense of humor. When she is not out traveling the world, she is busy writing, doing yoga, and performing hip-hop and bhangra. She also likes to pretend living in her hippie town of Fairfax, CA is like being on vacation.

5 Comments... join the discussion!

  • Eva replied on January 6, 2010

    The funny thing about Chuck Thompson is, he’s got this whole “there’s no room for negativity in this bullshit travel writing world” shtick, while at the same time he is basically making a living off negativity in travel writing. Neat trick.

    I’ve gotta disagree with this, briefly – “of course, the market has changed dramatically since Lying; there is now much more “real” travel writing available on the web and in certain travel magazines.” One of the things that frustrated me about “Smile” (apart from the relentless negativity – Rick Steves is “the doofus king”? really?) is that the whole thing, it seemed to me, was built on a straw man argument. Anyone who’s been reading the Best American Travel Writing series over the years can see there’s plenty of travel writing out there that gets beyond the “sun-dappled barf.” That’s been the case for a long while, it hasn’t changed, and hopefully it never will.

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    • Ian MacKenzie replied to Eva on January 6, 2010

      Eva – You make a great point. Quality travel writing has been around for a long time, but it does feels like it’s becoming more accessible with the web… unfortunately that also means the amount of fluff has gone up… likely exponentially.

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      • Christine Garvin replied to Ian MacKenzie on January 6, 2010

        Eva, while I agree that books like Best American Travel Writing, which often pull articles from magazines, have published quality travel writing for years, often these articles are not found in TRAVEL magazines. They may have been pulled from the New Yorker or Slate or other big name non-travel publications (I know there are exceptions to the rule, like Gary Shteyngart’s piece coming from Travel & Leisure), and are often by well-known authors. But if you pick up a travel magazine or travel guide, up until a few years ago how most people planned or dreamed out their next destination, I can’t help but agree with Thompson’s assessment. I think the landscape of blogs and online magazines has begun to shift this approach, though.

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        • Eva replied to Christine Garvin on January 11, 2010

          That’s a fair point, Christine, but if I remember right it’s not a distinction that Thompson ever bothers to make. He rails about how there was nowhere to publish his stories – he doesn’t say anything nuanced about the lack of grittier narratives in travel glossies, just claims he had nowhere to spin his tales. Why not try pitching Slate, the New Yorker, etc? It’s always seemed disingenuous to me.

          Myself, I’ve never had a problem with the more literary and “colorful” narratives appearing in non-travel mags. Different mags serve different purposes – Budget Travel, for instance, is essentially a service mag, so why should they be running Chuck’s (disgusting, disrespectful) story about an aged hooker in Thailand? I’m just not sure why this divide creates so much angst in the travel writing community – I’d bet that a lot of the best food, sports, music etc. writing appears in the New Yorker, Harpers and so on as well, rather than in food, sports, music mags.

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  • Ahi replied on January 7, 2010

    Thanks for this article. I was interested in this book from reading your review , but the fact that he called Rick Steves a “doofus King” means I’m sold. That guy is a goober and a half. I usually quite enjoy getting indignant about opinionated writing so I will keep an eye out for both these books.

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